Venetian Glass June 13, 2008
Posted by Liz Mead in : Coming Back , add a comment
Looking through a glass darkly – hardly! Not in this place exquisite light – Venezia.
We are, as the old English writers would put it, on an excursion today: to Murano, famous for Glass making, the Lido, famous for Byron et al, and the Island of Burano, famous for lace - all aboard the Vaparettos! a water boat that chugs from station to station up the waterways of Venice. What fun indeed.
We are staying in the suburb of Cannaregio far from the maddening turistos, near the jewish ghetto in a moorish inspired hotel, reminiscent of Shylock and all things shakespearean. Funnily, I’ve learnt more about Italy, during my life, from an English Playwright than from actual travel. Well, that is all changing as one can’t help but be inspired and aroused by this place.
Gab and I are in Venice, Italy. What a place! I thought Croatia was beautiful, but this is like a balm for the spirit. A fair amount of it is enhanced by a delightful golden liquid called Prosecco (Miss Garner used to drink it in Salley Vicker’s book).
This intoxicant is enhanced by the vistas as well, the bright and variegated colours of the walls, the distresseed brick and rendering, the mossy-water-licked edges, the rotted wood and coloured
striped poles that poke up out of the rocking rolling green water, the many boats navigating, bumping, in a dance across the canal ways: hell I can even stand the American tourists!
It is like living inside a painting or an art Gallery. This became especially apparant to me, when I went to the Accademia (Gallery) a day or so ago, and sat before enormous paintings from the 17th Century of the suburb in which I am now living. Why I even recognised the washing hanging from the shuttered windows, in much the same way they are displayed these days. Now that was surreal!
Yesterday we went to Frari the basilica that houses The Annunciation by Titian as well as a Donatello statue and surprise of all – the tomb of Monterverdi (my all time favourite composer of sacred music). Just when you thought you’d seen it all. A few days before we’d seen the graves of Ezra Pound, Serge Diaghilev and Igor Stravinsky at Cimitro, an island cemetery visible from Venezia town.
Well the city beckons, I need to be off to taste some more scampi, some more casa vino Blanco and catch another Vaparetto. Another glass of your finest my good man, line them up.