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Hvar and the digestive trac-k-t June 7, 2008

Posted by Liz Mead in Matters Yellow.
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My sister, Gab and I have been discussing her new blog - one dedicated to the food she is encountering on her travels - entitled the digestive trac-k-t.

Can you see it, taste it? Where were you when you ate that fabulous rosetta desert? What did you learn about the town when you ate their famous fish stew?

 I think it’s a great idea. What better way to embrace and anchor yourself in a place than via the digestive tract? or the taste-buds?

For people like my sister, they have the ability to recall towns and places through their visceral memory bank. Her trip through eastern Europe will sound and taste much finer when seasoned with memories of chorbe-de-fasola (bean soup!) than it would by her traumatised memory of being fined by an abrasive Bulgarian guard on a Brashov bus, because she didnt have a ticket.

A fair deal of our Travels are all in the mind. My own approach to travel isnt as broad minded nor as cruisy as my sister or my neices. I have a default position, when out of my comfort zone - when confronted by something out of the ordinary or off the plan I have formulated - I invariably  panic about what will happen, when it will happen if it will happen etc.

For instance, 3 days ago, we were on a ferry from Dubrovnik to Hvar, and the ferry sailed right past the town of Hvar. What!! It was calmly chugging up the coast of an island that looked completely deserted, thick with pine trees and no sign of life. I started to pray. Will we get off the boat? Have we now missed it? Should I have done something to remind them we were on the boat? Have we wasted the accommodation money? Are we instead going to Split further up the Dalmation Coast? What will we do there?

Gab was no good to me, she was off somewhere on the boat, looking at the scenery, photographing, as excited as a child on an adventure. Cruising with the cruisy.

Meanwhile, I am below, praying a mantra,  in a hot head of panic. None of the reasonable facts made their way through the shroud of anxiety.  I forgot how we had checked earlier the ferry was going to arrive at Hvar at 4.00. How the ticket said it was going to Stari Grad (which on the map was on the island of Hvar); how there were a  lot of other people on the boat going to Hvar. None of those facts could stop the panic.  I was left alone with a repetive prayer. Praying for what though? The ferry to turn around? an announcement (in English please)? Anything really.

Gab arrived back down at Deck 4. Come upstairs and see us arrive! smell the pine trees! Feel the breeze! Leave the bags! come on!!! Dont miss it!

So there we were up on Deck 5 watching the coast chug past, redolent with smells of rich green pine. She was none the wiser about where we were going, but she wasnt worried. A woman came up to stand beside us. She was alone, and we three were the only ones on our part of the deck. She smiled watching the island slide past even further.

Are you going to Hvar ? she asked, and then proceeded to explain how the ferry would pull into the old port, and as they had been in the tourist business for over 100 years would ensure we would be safely deposited at our hotel and would we like a photo?   And as we returned to get our bags, Gabby said there is your angel - the answer to your prayers.

Well the island is spectacular, and our taste buds and bodies have been embalmed and delighted with warm waters, delightful flavours, sun rain, sweet wine and good sleeps. Everything the island (which does indeed boast over 100 years as a holiday-health spa destination) promised and much more.

Looking back, as always, I am ashamed of my panic, and disappointed with myself to think my age or experience hasnt changed any of those default reactions I have. But thats me, I guess, and I have to digest that along with everything else this trip is teaching me about.

Hvala Hvar.

In the heart of Dubrovnik June 2, 2008

Posted by Liz Mead in The journey.
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Tried to tweet- but there’s a twittering backlog! yikes.

What to do when you can’t tweet?  Blog of course.

Gab and I are travelling around Croatia and today we sorted out the ferry trip awaiting us later in the week that will take us further up the coast and thereafter over to Italy.

This is arguably the most beautiful place I’ve seen in my life. Sure everyone says that - but I mean seriously beautiful.

Picture this: Marble buildings with base reliefs in brass, marble stone road straight up the middle of a town; gargoyles, catholic statues of St Nicholas and a plethora of others, that sit atop a magnificent cathedral; squares filled with umbrella’d cafes and bars, fresh food produce every morning in the square; the most exquisite jewellery made of gold and coral - filigree handworked and competitively priced; pastries that pack the kilos on; a wall walk - of 2 km length that will manage to get the weight off.

This morning we walked for about an hour - past grand old mansions that are now post offices, banks, restaurants or tourist offices. Makes one wonder what sort of life style these croatians had before the war savaged their town.

Each day we trawl for the perfect coffee; each night for the perfect seafood repaste. They work hard for the tourist dollar and we are delighted to be spending it here. Fabulous scampi, prawns, fresh mussells, fish and pasta. Cool beer and house wine in a jug. Go that weight gain.. what a way to live.

Our apartment is buried in the heart of the old town, our landlady a charming woman who laughs when we try to mime our communicative needs - 2 beds not one; ice tray for gin; hallway light control etc. If you come to dubrovnik - you’ll be swamped by people at the boat offering apartments - we were so happy to get this fabulous deal doing it that way. I’ll tell you the details if you plan on visiting her.

For now - a ferry awaits, a seafood dinner and a concert in the old church at th end of the central stradun road.

Dorbra !

The customs of travel June 1, 2008

Posted by Liz Mead in The journey.
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We’ve just landed off the ferry in Dubrovnik from Bari in the south of Italy. After a fabulous sleep on the rocking and rolling Adriatic waters.

Our tiny cabin provided the right amount of privacy and peace and recovery from the nightmarish customs passport check we endured at Bari.

After conflicting instructions from the check-in windows, about 300 passengers of varying nationalities all found ourselves in an airless corridor waiting for passport control to open the doors.

Like cattle we were herded for nearly 2 hours in a tight space with no explanation, other than random and agressive waving of the arms. Was the boat delayed, had it sunk, were we stuck at Bari forever? Now and then the Canadians made a run for it,  but were always sent back. There were a handful of clergy in the queue so we had spiritual counselling, and a nun from the queue, dressed in a brown habit handed out sweets to the back-packers - she was possibly looking for vocations but in any event she was a great balm to them.

Finally, either the late boat arrived, or the cleaning was complete, or they decided they’d punished us enough, and the doors were opened and we were practically run through  - some even got through without a passport? No check no question no nothing - oi what does it all mean?  On board we had a couple of stiff drinks and all was good.

Anyway, when the new day arrived we sailed into the delightful town of Dubrovnik that keeps delighting the senses with steep stepped alleys, tiny apartments, charming landladies, very cool internet cafes and a plethora of sightseeing boats in the harbour. Even popped into the church for a quick hail-mary.

The task ahead is to visit the beauty parlour (where I will have to talk Gabbie out of getting a hair dye - lest it turn out bright red like most of eastern europe!) have a swim, walk the wall of the old town and relish this town that seems to have emerged from the mist of misery last night like nirvana.